INTERVIEW WITH NEIL RANKIN

It's been a little while since my last chef interview post, but I'm back with a great one today (and I have a few more crackers lined up for the next couple of months).

Today's interview is with chef Neil Rankin of the Smokehouse and Bad Egg. Neil's worked across the culinary board - from top end restaurants with Michelin star chefs, to cooking at Nuno Mendes's infamous loft supper clubs but it was working with BBQ chef Adam Perry Lang that really set Neil on the path that's brought him to where he is now - taking the reins at Pitt Cue in 2011 and then heading up John Salt in Islington. Neil then opened his own restaurant, Smokehouse, in Islington, which now has a second site in Chiswick, and just so happens to be my current favourite restaurant.... because somewhere that serves Somerset goat tacos with chipotle aioli and green sauce, as well as deep fried rock oyster, beef dripping toast and smoked bone marrow, and has a child-free whisky room, and reindeer furs on the back of the restaurant benches, and sources the best quality produce you could want, just can't not be my favourite! Neil's food is about slow cooking and smoking, but also there's a huge Korean influence in a lot of his dishes - think slow cooked smoked lamb shoulder served with a sambal (chilli and prawn) sauce.

Neil is a busy man (especially during BBQ season!) but I managed to get my interview questions to him, and here's what he had to say....

1. Who has inspired you the most in your career?

Adam Perry Lang. He’s who taught me to cook meat and it set me on my path away from fine dining to what I do now.

2. What is the first thing you remember cooking?

I think it was omelettes when I was 13 or 14. I used to cook them when my mum was late back from work.

3. What is your favourite restaurant in London?

Quality chop house. Its pretty much flawless these days. 

4. What is your can't live without kitchen gadget?

A thermopen thermometer. I carry it with me everywhere

5. What your top 3, can't live without, ingredients?

Salt, cracked black pepper and an abundance of herbs.

6. What's your newest ingredient discovery?

Tahini. Its not a new discovery but I’m using it a lot more than I used to and in different ways. 

7. What is the most difficult food intorlerance to cook for?

Generally I’d say dairy but they are all pretty easy given enough notice. 

8. What is the best piece of advice you would give to someone wanting to start a career as a chef?

Cook as many cuisines as possible and be creative with your career choices. Don’t just hit the well known kitchens otherwise its harder to stand out and gain an individual style (I love this piece of advice and couldn't agree more with Neil - and you can see the influence all the cuisines that he's cooked in his food at the Smokehouse).

9. What do you make of supper clubs? Have you ever been to one?

Been to them and done them. They’re fun and a great way to get your name out there. 

10. And finally - what's the plan for you in 2015, and beyond? Where are you currently working, and do you have any exciting projects in the pipeline (that you don't mind my readers knowing about!)

Lots of stuff I can’t tell you about but I’ve got a book coming out early next year and doing lots of new stuff in the next 6 months (so exciting, I'll be first in the line to get Neil's book when it comes out!)

A huge thank you to Neil for taking part in my interview series, fascinating answers from a man who cooks some of the best food in London!
 

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INTERVIEW with OLLY BIRD

I met chef Olly Bird a couple of months ago when I popped in to try out Rex and Mariano - the newest restaurant from the Goodman Group, and in my opinion, the best place to get fish and seafood in London at the moment. Olly is Executive Chef of the Goodman Group (Goodman steakhouses, Burger and Lobster, Rex and Mariano, Beast) and was working closely with their latest venture to make sure everything was running smoothly - which it was! I was sitting on my own up at the oyster bar and Olly patiently answered all my many questions (not the ones below) as he shucked massive, fresh oysters for me and the other diners. Cool, calm and collected Olly was in complete control of the hectic looking, open kitchens at the restaurant. He kindly gave me his card so I could get in touch with my "proper" interview questions, and came back with the below answers.

1. Who has inspired you the most in your career?

This is a hard question as every head chef I have worked under has always inspired me to push on more in my career, but the main two have to be Mark Sargent for the way he makes cooking look so smooth and easy and John Cadieux for his depth in knowledge and passion - I can still remember rocking up to Goodman Maddox Street and being blown away by what he knew about beef. 

2. What is the first thing you remember cooking?

Apart from baking on Sundays with my mum, I remember cooking pears poached in red wine, as well as cooking on the vegetable section. But after progressing off the side section I remember being allowed to cook salmon with a beurre blanc sauce which at the time was a massive achievement for me.

3. What is your favourite restaurant in London (excluding any you work for!)?

The Ledbury. 

4. What is your can't live without kitchen gadget?

Food mixer, as I love making desserts and bread (I love my food mixer too - it saves so much time in my kitchen and I use it for desserts and bread, but also chopping, grating, sauces...)

5. What are your top 3, can't live without, ingredients?

Nutella as I have an addiction to it. But that aside it’s salt, foie gras and butter. (Such an expected answer!! Nutella...!?)

6. What's your newest ingredient discovery?

Fermented yellow beans, not so much a new discovery but I have been recently cooking some Asian style dishes so have been working with this product for the first time.

7. What is the most difficult food intolerance to cook for?

I would probably say gluten is the hardest as you have it in so many products around you in the kitchen.

8. What is the best piece of advice you would give to someone wanting to start a career as a chef?

To remember that when you walk into the kitchen you won't be a superstar like the chefs you see on television, and that it's not as easy as it looks, so if it's something that you really want to do as a career then get ready for the long hours, heat and hard work. Keep your head down and learn as much as you can. And never answer back!! (This is something that most chefs I've interviewed have said - it is hard, hard work - even from my infrequent and small pop ups I know how much hard work it is!)

9. What do you make of supper clubs? Have you ever been to one?

I think supper clubs are great fun and a good opportunity to meet new people, I have been to Burger Monday and we cooked the Goodman burger there a few years back.

10. And finally - what's the plan for you in 2015, and beyond? Where are you currently working, and do you have any exciting projects in the pipeline (that you don't mind my readers knowing about!)

I’m executive chef for Goodman, Beast and Rex and Mariano so I end up floating around all the sites, but most of my time at the moment is spent between Beast and Rex and Mariano as these are our newest openings so far. As soon as we have any exciting news I will let you all know! 

Again, such fascinating answers, thank you so Olly. I'm really enjoying running this series of chef interviews, and I hope you are too. You can check out previous editions with Michel Roux Jr, Carl Clarke, and Matt Burgess.
 

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INTERVIEW with MATT BURGESS

Here's another interview with a great chef for you today. This time it's Matt Burgess who I met when I went to review Ealing Park Tavern after it reopened following a refurb earlier this year. Matt's taken over the kitchen there and I pop in to say hi whenever I'm eating at EPT. Ealing Park Tavern was always a favourite of mine, but since Matt's taken the reins he's really stepped it up a level on the food front. We've had many fantastic meals there, including their whole joint Sunday roasts which are incredible. Matt also works with DJ BBQ on summer food festivals as well as being the in house and on road chef for Hospital Records - one of my favourite record labels. In fact, the more I found out about Matt, the more I realised we had in common and knew some of the same people - good old Instagram, always connecting the dots!

1. Who has inspired you the most in your career?

 

I can't pick one exact person that has inspired me the most - as I'm inspired by people every day.  If I had to choose, it would be my son and my mother. Jamie Oliver has also been a big part of my inspiration over the past 3 years and for his work on eating better.  Finally, Stuart Powell (flourish bakery) on being a great mentor, advice giver and friend.

 

2. What is the first thing you remember cooking?

 

My mother is a great cook, she was bought up by my nana who  lived in the kitchen, baking cakes.  My mum had a spice rack the size of our family kitchen so from as early as I can remember I would play with her spices making constant variations in cups of water and forcing my mum to taste them.  I vaguely remember making a spaghetti Bolognese with every single spice mum had - I'm sure it didn't taste that great! (Glad you're cooking's improved since then Matt!)

3. What is your favourite restaurant in London? 

 

Ooof that's a tough one.  I can't live without Meat Liqour but I also love Bluebird on Kings Road and XO in Belsize Park. Arrgggghhhh - such hard questions!

 

4. What is your can't live without kitchen gadget? 

 

A blender called margarita madness – it’s really loud, big and bulky but could blend metal to the lightest, finest puree you have ever tasted!

 

5. What your top 3, can't live without, ingredients?

 

- Piran sea salt from Slovenia

- Karachi (form of ginger)

- Soy sauce

 

6. What's your newest ingredient discovery?

 

Pisco, it's an incredible spirit from Peru – but it’s also very, very dangerous and should come with a warning! (I'm a massive Pisco fan too - might have to use it in cocktails at my summer pop ups)

 

7. What is the most difficult food intolerance to cook for?

 

I once had a customer that couldn’t eat off ceramic. That was tough. (Um, ok - what a nightmare!?)

 

8. What is the best piece of advice you would give to someone wanting to start a career as a chef?

 

It may seem glam on the outside but in reality it's not. It's hard work, long hours in a really hot environment, you will make no money and never sleep!  If you accept these negatives early on, the positives will be a whole lot better!

9. What do you make of supper clubs? Have you ever been to one? 

I LOVE THEM! Great concepts, anything that promotes better eating is a good thing for me! I’ve never been to one but I'll be coming to yours soon Rosie, to break my supper club virginity! (Correct answer Matt, 10 points for you!!!)

10. And finally - what's the plan for you in 2015, and beyond? Where are you currently working, and do you have any exciting projects in the pipeline (that you don't mind my readers knowing about!) 

 

BBQ season is nearly upon us and I have spent the last 2 years helping out my great friend DJ BBQ.  We have a lot of dates in the bag and this year will be bigger and better that ever! Grillstock, Camp Bestival, Jamie Oliver's big FEASTIVAL to name a few! I have lots of other big plans with Hospital Records so watch this space! (I can't wait to hear more!)

You can currently find Matt at the pass in Ealing Park Tavern cooking up a storm, including this super delicious looking Spring plate of lamb cutlets, shoulder, pear mostarda, peas and artichokes - yum!!
 

 

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INTERVIEW with CARL CLARKE

Following on from my interview with Michel Roux Jr at the end of the last year I've decided to start a series of chef interview posts.

Today's chef is Carl Clarke, who was named one of London's most influential people by The Evening Standard. Carl has popped up all over London with ventures including Rock Lobsta, English Laundrette, God Save the Clam and Disco Bistro EC4 & N1C - two of which I went to when they were open. Now he's back with his first permanent restaurant, Chick n Sours, which opens in Dalston on the 17th of April. Here's what he had to say when I asked him a few questions...

1. Who has inspired you the most in your career?

I've met so many brilliant people, from chefs to artists to amazing producers, and just being able to work and learn from them on various  projects has been inspiring in itself. (Carl used to DJ at Turnmills before turning his hand to cooking - one of my old hangouts...!!)

2. What is the first thing you remember cooking?

I never used to cook or be interested in food as kid. I was from a working class Irish family and food was just sustenance rather than pleasure. I became a chef really out of the necessity of eating. The love came later.  I guess it was cooking toast on a fork in the dark with my sister on an electric fire. Quite a risky way of cooking toast!!

3. What is your favorite restaurant in London?

I've got so many for so many different reasons so its hard to say. My favorite Indian is called The Regency Curry Club in Queensbury. An old boozer that does next level Bengali grills and has their own larger brewed for them. (I'd never heard of the Regency Club but definitely want to try it now).

4. What is your can't live without kitchen gadget?

Thermomix

5. What your top 3, can't live without, ingredients?

- Gochujang (a savoury and pungent fermented Korean condiment made from red chilli, glutinous rice, fermented soybeans and salt).

- Smoked beef dripping.

- Ssamjang (a thick, spicy paste used with food wrapped in a leaf in Korean cuisine. The sauce is made of doenjang, gochujang, sesame oil, onion, garlic, green onions, and optionally brown sugar).

6. What's your newest ingredient discovery?

Toban Djan (a fermented paste that combines hot chillies with broad beans) & yam bean (white flesh of the root can be eaten cooked or raw. Crisp, moist, and slightly sweet, the flesh draws comparison with that of the apple).

7. What is the most difficult food intolerance to cook for?

I'm not quite sure really. I can't keep up with all the new intolerances!!

8. What is the best piece of advice you would give to someone wanting to start a career as a chef?

Learn to love the amazing produce that we have in this country, its an important part of becoming a great chef. Have respect for the producers and their produce and the rest will follow. (THIS is why I cook and what my own cooking is all about - absolutely 100% agree with Carl here).

9. What do you make of supper clubs? Have you ever been to one?

I've done quite a few pop ups in my time, but the idea of sitting in someone's front room having dinner weirds me out a bit so no, not really. (Carl - you should come and try my one - I think I'd change your mind...!)

10. And finally - what's the plan for you in 2015, and beyond? Where are you currently working, and do you have any exciting projects in the pipeline?

I'm currently just about to open my first full time restaurant called Chick n Sours. It's basically built on my obsession with fried chicken and we are going to do awesome sours cocktails. So that's going to keep me busy for most of next year but I can't wait!! It will be open in April.

Thanks so much for your honest and interesting answers Carl.

To try Carl's cooking, do check out Chick n Sours once it opens - I've had fantastic food at both of Carl's pop ups that I've been to, and am really looking forward to trying the new menu of  free-range, herb-fed fried chicken; mouth-watering sides such as pickled watermelon and peanut salad, and grilled kimchi with Japanese mayo and crispy chicken skin; sour cocktails made exclusively for the restaurant by Sam Dunne, formerly of The Rotary and Milk & Honey; locally brewed beers and Willys Cider from Chase Farm; and Weetabix or white chocolate and miso soft-serve ice-cream creations.

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INTERVIEW with MICHEL ROUX JR

It's not every day you receive an email asking if you'd like to send some interview questions through for Michel Roux Jr, but that's exactly what happened last Friday, much to my surprise and excitement. I love the Rouxs as chefs and always have done. I watch little live TV - only Attenborough, football and cooking shows - but have always loved what I've seen of Michel Roux Jr on shows such as Masterchef and Food and Drink, which I have on catch up in the background on Saturday mornings when I'm cooking for my pop ups. I was asked to provide questions for this interview as Michel is fundraising for a really great charity that he is a patron of, VICTA - a charity that fundraises to provide support and activities for visually impaired and blind children - by trading from an initial budget of £2,500 with City Index and trying to make as much money as possible - as stressful as a day in the kitchen I'm sure, just not half as tasty! Michel is a long term supporter of VICTA and has run several marathons for the charity too. I've enjoyed reading Michel's answers to my questions so much, and I hope you do too - he really seems even lovelier than I already thought he was:

1. Who has inspired you the most in your career? 
My first boss when I was an apprentice pastry chef, he was a man that led by example and rarely shouted. He was the first person in, in the morning and the last one out at night. 

2. What is the first thing you remember cooking? 
The first thing I remember cooking wasn’t actually cooking it was making ice cream as a child. My father had made the custard and I must have been about six and had to churn it by hand as we didn’t have an electric machine. It was churned on ice and was a very hard job. I was rewarded with a scoop of freshly made ice cream. 

3. What is your favourite restaurant in London? 
My favourite local restaurant is The Dairy in South London. I think it would be wonderful if every local restaurant was like the dairy. It’s affordable, run by a husband and wife team, and has a real homely feel. It ticks all the boxes of what I look for in a restaurant. 

4. What is your can’t live without kitchen gadget?
At the moment this would be a pressure cooker, I think they’re back in fashion now, when you say pressure cooker you usually think of your granny or old cabbage but these days they really are state of the art. 

5. What are your top three can’t live without ingredients? 
These would have to be venison, truffles and chocolate. 

6. What is your newest ingredient discovery? 
A forgotten vegetable, cardoons. 

7. What is your worst food intolerance to cook for? 
Working in a restaurant you have to cook for lots of different intolerances, but the one I have the most sympathy for has to be gluten, as I really couldn’t give up bread, pasta or any wheat products. 

8. Why did you choose to fundraise for VICTA today? 
Visually Impaired Children Taking Action - I’ve run marathons for VICTA for 16-18 years now. It’s about taking blind or partially sighted children out-and-about and getting them involved in sporting activities. It’s a small charity and I believe the smaller the charity the more of the money actually goes to the cause. I’ve had over four operations on my eyes myself and they really do deserve a little bit of help.
(I'm completely with Michel here with regards donating to smaller charities as I also believe that more money gets to those who need it this way) 

9. What is the best piece of advice you would give to someone wanting to start a career as a Chef? 
The advice I would give is for someone in a job or apprenticeship to take notes - not necessarily recipes but just little notes as you go along, in the form of a little diary. I still look back at my notes I made when I was apprentice and it really is an inspiration to look back and to learn.
(This is such a nice answer from Michel. So many chefs answer this question with "don't become a chef" which is really unhelpful for those who've already decided that they do want to be a chef!) 

Such interesting answers! The first thing I did when I read them was look up cardoons - it's a vegetable known as the artichoke thistle, and both the stalks and leaves can be eaten, and have an artichoke flavour to them - something to consider for my pop up menus!

There was one question on my list I'd sent through that Will didn't have time to ask for me, which was what Michel thought of supper clubs, and would he like to come to mine one day?! So if you're reading this Michel, why don't you come and try it out?!?
 

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